Marseille: 2013 Culture Capital of Europe

    That's right parents and older folks, the oldest city in France is no longer the grimy, smoky, peg-legged sailor ridden port that it apparently used to be. I wasn't sure about how high my expectations were for the city, but it sure was clean and beautiful. We're staying in a 2 person hotel like room in the cheapest hotel/hostel available. The main central area surrounds a huge blue port with gleaming white ships of all sizes as far as the port allows. Surrounding port are cute little restaurants, cafes, and bars on every street nearby. Most nice ones are expensive, but finding cheap food and markets is an easy task. And shopping on side streets may be more numerous and involve more bargains than anywhere yet! Our big splurge of Europe happened when we tiptoed into a designer store that was on sale. The owner, an old and flirty frenchie, explained he dresses models and TV stars, then sells their only worn once clothes at a discount here! He bedazzled his only 2 customers by pulling out dresses from all cuts, colors and price points to make us feel like glamour girls. Genuinely critiquing which colours and shapes for us, tsking at our hobo feet, and throwing us free lingerie because apparently my undies didn't live up to my dress... I got my first oo la la Italian designer dress from France!

    We climbed an endless stone staircase, after struggling up an endless wingding hill to finally reach Notre Dame de la Garde, the famous church overlooking the city. Different from any other, this one had strings of handmade boats dangling down around the church, and walls full of seascape paintings or paintings of ships. The Fort of the old town had a great panoramic view, but it was the architecture of the Musee d'Archeologie Mediterraneenne that took my breath away. Its sheek, black walls with artistic holes created reflections and images depending on the suns position. We also spent a lot of time in the 1671 Center de la Veille Charite. Formerly built for the poor and homeless, it has a chapel in the center of its courtyard, and houses the museums of African, Oceanic and Mexican art, as well as some award winning contemporary art exhibition. Now I love art. Usually. But I just could not contain my groans of disappointment at yet another empty house photograph or yellow circle on a grey square. The other exhibits of incredibly detailed and colorful masks, and shields made of human head and bones, those I admired. One night we decided to be really immersed, and so we walked to an open showing of Le Magicien  d'Oz in a park, enjoying a jumbo screening with young families and elderly lovers. Many hearts were warmed.

    We found a beautiful area of sandy white beaches, with a boardwalk and tiny carnival to boot. Unfortunately we made it just to the end of the long rock outcrop when the rain hit. The last day we made our way through confusing bus transfers to the Calanques, or in English, where Johnny Depp was about to bring in the Black Pearl. This was the most beautiful collection of mountains and sea, with caves and rock islands, that I've ever seen.