Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Dubrovenik: Vacation from our vacation

    Where to begin to describe a place surpassing all others in natural beauty, trusting and absolutely charming people, and temperatures that make you sweat to walk? Croatia is the absolute image of paradise. With 10 days here, it's our spa vacation from the high speed pace of backpacking. Usually. We couldn't keep our jaw from hitting the ground the first day seeing each new view. We stayed at two different families houses with our own room, and lots of coffee and treats. The second one we buzzed in and two girls of about 7 and 4 led us in, showed us around, gave us a key, and said pay later. Typical of these wonderful, kind people (Dalmations) we came to know. Dubrovenik is scattered with beaches; most rock, but some sand, and all very busy. Got too used to Canada and its big space. We usually laze our way to a new beach to swim, read (between the Iliad for the 2nd try and learning Korean, just some light reading), but NO beach vball or frisbee my Port Elginers! Most do have bars and music though, and a great boardwalk at Lapad, a favourite.

    Another favourite is walking to Old Town. The entire town is a UNESCO world heritage site, completely surrounded by high stone walls and towers that made up its fortress! Formerly for defense, the towers have changed with the times. We met two Canadian guys on the beach who we got drinks with one night, and went crazy dancing the night away into the wee hours in one of the towers that was converted into a huge electro club. First night out at an Irish bar, some local came and sat with us. Hugely helpful with advice, though a bit socially off, he insisted on doing the "good local thing", and introduced us to the best cheap local bar, and we all shot the Croatian liquour. Old Town is expensive as it's tourist central, but so full of action. Lots of museums, restaurants, shops and of course ice cream. Our first Dalmation meal was at a cute seafood restaurant on the water, where in big, black, stone pots I got squid, and Keelin got a pot full of grilled minnows! Who knew when we caught all those minnows at the cottage, forgot them, and as kids often let them burn to death in the heat, we were chefs in the making?

    For a day trip we ferried to Lokrum island. We hiked around it hitting up Fort Royal, the wild Botanical garden of exotic plants, scaled then huge white rocks on the nudist beach, and did some rock jumping. The whole island was home to wild peacocks that you actually had to sidestep in the paths and fight for good tanning areas. We also swam in the Dead Sea there in a small lake, and finished off with some iced coffee at the outdoor patio with music. We also did a boat trip to the three Elaphite islands: Lopud, Sipan and Kolocep. Gorgeous beaches, fun hiking paths, and great local fish cuisine for lunch.

    Another day we took a mini bus to Montenegro with a crazy "family vacation" type crowd. Our somewhat comprehensible guide Mario drove, with an old bickering couple in the front, and an old, grumpy Italian in the back in his Hawaiian shirt. Three high spirited ladies sat in the middle, two women taking their old, fantastic white haired mom (spitting image and voice of granny Fraser!) From England. We got along so well with them, laughing, jaw dropping at the views, and sharing stories. Though we protested profusely, at the end they insisted on giving us money to get a great supper out that night and a drink, then waved as I blew them kisses away. Montenegro has two beautiful Old Town's that we visited, also former fortresses, with churches, restaurants, shops, and a long line of tent stalls where we snagged a bit of great jewellery. There was also a big boardwalk with funky themed restaurants, and a great sandy beach for swimming and people watching. 10 days is a long time here, but it gave us some time to refuel, tan, and do some day trips! Parents and family - this is the number one we know you'd love.

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